From GENE LOGSDON That’s the question country people found in their mail boxes recently here in Ohio. It certainly is a sign of the times. The notification comes from Marathon Oil which is worried about all the pipelines it has laid across the face of America. The company says “farming activities account for nearly 75 percent of all the excavation related damages to liquid pipelines.” Marathon wants farmers working tillable fields to call them tw … Read More
I have to share this with everyone! I was told about this a while ago, forgot, and was just reminded. So, I made this up last night, sprayed, and my prayers have been answered! Those cabbage loopers that have wreaked havoc all over every bit of food I have been growing are DEAD! There was no new damage this morning (after me going out every night with a flash light and take care of the little buggers but always missing some) AND I found a number of them dead! I am SO HAPPY! Thank you, Don!
Hi Brenda,
I don’t know if I have told you this before so here goes. I make up a tincture of capsicum. It is made by putting a large can of Cayenne Pepper into a pint of Vodka. Sit in the sun for two weeks, shaking twice a day.
Strain. Make sure you label it because it is liquid fire. Now for chewing and sucking insects, I put several cloves of garlic and a coarsely chopped onion in a blender with water. I puree and then strain out the large pieces. Add an ounce or more of the tincture of capsicum (from above) and add some liquid soap. The liquid soap helps the proper ingredients to stay on the leaves when the water dries. Put into a spray bottle. Since this is a water based insect repellent, it will have to be sprayed on after each rain or sprinkling.
I have used this on many plants and it can also be used to stop chewing animals.
Give it a try. To do things simply, you could probably put a large quantity of cayenne into water and let it simmer for a while and use it in place of the tincture. B*B, Don
I found two articles amongst the files on my website. They were originally attributed to http://www.survivalistsseeds.com but I found the websites they originally came from. This shows how important proper credit is regarding information obtained from the Internet. Just because it is on one site DOES NOT mean they did not cut and paste it from another.
The first is Seed Savers Exchange’s Basic Seed Saving (How to Save Seeds). There is so much information there!
Then there’s this article that covers everything from planning your garden to saving seeds: Seed Savers Learn Page.
As most of you know, we have not had our typical California weather this year. It is June 7 and today is supposed to be a high of 77 degrees F. Plus, possible showers tonight. I’m tired of waiting. Tired of waiting for the weather to cooperate and tired of waiting for a house of our own so I can STOP growing in these dang pots!
So, I am making a truck garden. While I’m still growing in containers, the plants will get all the sun they need, and we may be able to get a little more food aside from sugar snap peas and tomatoes this year (though the tomatoes are questionable). Here’s what I already have planted (and growing):
Sugar Snap Peas and Mixed salad greens, which didn’t really perform like I had hoped. Next time, I’ll just stick with spinach in its own container.
Carrots (yes, they are there somewhere)
Cherokee Purple tomatoes (only had room for this one, Toni, but THANK YOU FOR THE SEEDS!)
Early Girl Tomato (which isn’t all that early … dang thing just now got it’s second set of leaves)
Zucchini
And I’m going to tempt the weather gods by planting … tuscan melon! Please let us have a mild/warm autumn! This isn’t including the pots I’m not moving: brussel sprouts, collard greens, celery, three different mints (peppermint, spearmint, and chocolate mint) plus a couple kitchen herbs (basil and oregano … I need more of these).
Like I said, all these are in containers. The only problem (aside from weather, which I’m going to complain about constantly) is the lack of sun in my back yard. This is my back yard:
Notice the HUGE pecan tree? Well, it just keeps getting bigger (at least one thing is growing well this year) and now my pots get sun until about noon. That’s it. So, I complain every time I go out there to take care of them, just about ready to put the pots on the roof of the garage when it hits me. Our truck! We non-oped it a couple years ago because 8 miles to the gallon! I love the truck. I love the fact that if we need to move a whole bunch of stuff, we have the truck. BUT, it’s just sitting there, in the driveway, getting more sun than any spot in my back yard! So I took out the tool box, sprayed the wasp nests all over the place (they really like the side rails), knocked the nests down, and raked out the truck:
I hosed it out and put my containers in the bed … oh, I also drilled an extra drainage hole in the dent in the bed where the water keeps pooling. Then I found a set of misters that have been sitting in my garage for about 5 years (I keep finding uses for all my junk and I’ll NEVER throw anything away again), took off the misting heads, and voila! Drip system!
Now, I have a garden that may actually produce this year! Do you see that? That’s sun! As you can see, there’s plenty of room to add more! BTW, those are water containers cut in half and the blue container is one of those toy containers you can buy just about anywhere. Since the kids are no longer kids, I recycled!
Oh, see that upside down recycling bin? That is a REAL multipurpose tool! As it is right there, it’s my step ladder (which I need because the tailgate is chest level). Turn it over and it holds the weeds, leaves, and garbage. It holds my clippings. I can hold harvested food (sturdy and has handles). AND whenever it’s time to move, it will hold miscellaneous garage items! I love these things!
So, anyway, here are the links I found while trying to figure out what I could plant now:
Below is an article describing the safe use of household greywater (think kitchen sink, washer, and bathtub water) from a website that I cannot access any longer and here is an article from the University of Florida Extension explaining how to build a cistern for non-potable water:
Revised by Marsha Duttle, Extension Research Assistant
College of Agriculture and Home Economics New Mexico State University
Greywater is water that has been used for washing dishes, laundering clothes, or bathing. Essentially, any water, other than toilet wastes, draining from a household is greywater. Although this used water may contain grease, food particles, hair, and any number of other impurities, it may still be suitable for reuse. Reusing greywater serves two purposes: it reduces the amount of freshwater needed to supply a household, and reduces the amount of waste water entering sewer or septic systems.
The New Mexico Environment Department and the Construction Industries Division govern liquid waste disposal in New Mexico, and issue permits for approved systems. Greywater use is restricted by the Liquid Waste Disposal Regulations (LWDR), but the Environment Department can grant a variance if the applicant shows that:
“granting the variance will result in public health and environmental protection equal to or greater than the minimum protection provided by the varianced requirement” (LWDR section 202.D.2.); and
“the proposed liquid waste system will, by itself or in combination with other liquid waste systems, neither cause a hazard to public health nor degrade any body of water” (LWDR section 202.D. 1).
Note: Be sure to obtain all necessary permits before installing a greywater system.
USES FOR GREYWATER
The amount and quality of greywater will in part determine how it can be reused. Irrigation and toilet flushing are two common uses, but nearly any non-contact use is a possibility.
Greywater is suitable for irrigating lawns, trees, ornamentals, and food crops. Though irrigation methods in greenhouses may differ greatly from outdoor irrigation, several guidelines for use of greywater apply to both situations.
Apply greywater directly to the soil, not through a sprinkler or any method that would allow contact with the above-ground portion of the plants.
Root crops which are eaten uncooked should not be irrigated with greywater.
Plants that thrive only in acid soil should not be watered with greywater, which is alkaline.
Use greywater only on well-established plants, not seedlings or young plants.
Disperse greywater over a large area, and rotate with fresh water to avoid buildup of sodium salts.
In addition, when irrigating outdoors, apply greywater only to flat areas where runoff is not likely. A cloth bag attached to the end of the hose will help distribute water and also act as an additional filter. The filter will need to be removed and cleaned periodically (every three or four days).
In arid areas where dry grass or brush pose a fire hazard, homeowners may wish to plant a firebreak or “greenbelt” of a selected high-moisture species. Greywater is ideal for irrigating firebreaks, because it contributes plant nutrients in the process.
Remember that in most areas outdoor irrigation is a seasonal use for greywater, but greywater is produced throughout the year. If reverting to sewer or septic systems during the winter is not feasible, find uses that are possible during all seasons.
Toilet flushing can use considerable amounts of greywater, as it normally accounts for up to 50% of indoor water use. Poor quality greywater is not a problem if it is used to flush toilets, because the water goes into the sewer or septic system where it would have gone had it not been reused. Greywater should be pumped into the toilet bowl for flushing. DO NOT put greywater into the toilet tank. Greywater in the tank may not only cause the flushing mechanism to malfunction, but could be backsiphoned into the fresh water supply if water pressure decreases suddenly.
Lagoons or ponds containing greywater can grow algae to feed fish in a separate pond, or provide food for ducks and other waterfowl. Removal of the algae is necessary to keep the system aerobic and prevent foul odors. Ponds are often lined with concrete, stone, or plastic to prevent leakage. This method is a relatively inexpensive and easy way to recycle water, but requires some expertise to site and construct the lagoons.
With an automatic clothes washer, the wash water from a lightly soiled load, or rinse water, can be saved to wash the next load. When reusing laundry water for irrigation, do not use liquid fabric softener or detergents including softener (use softener sheets in the dryer instead). Water should not be reused if the laundry includes diapers. Wash water containing gasoline, diesel, or similar pollutants, should not be used for purposes other than flushing.
UNTREATED GREYWATER
Untreated greywater should not be kept for longer than one day, but adding two tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of water will extend storage time somewhat. Try to use greywater the day it is collected or the high bacteria count will cause objectionable odors.
Observe these precautions when using untreated greywater:
Greywater containing sodium, bleach or borax can damage plants. For this reason, water from automatic dishwashers should not be used for irrigation.
Water used to wash cooking utensils in the sink may contain grease, fats and oils, and is not acceptable for greywater use.
If you plan to use water from your washing machine, avoid liquid fabric softeners and detergents with softeners. Use a dryer fabric softener sheet instead.
TREATING GREYWATER
Investing time and equipment in a system designed to filter, store, and possibly disinfect greywater may make water reuse a more convenient practice. Some questions to answer before building a treatment system are:
How much greywater will have to be treated? About 65% of domestic wastewater is greywater. Bathing and laundry can generate considerable quantities of greywater in a large household.
What contaminants are present? Greywater from the bathroom will have different characteristics than that from the kitchen (see figure 1).
What are the possible uses after treatment? The planned uses of greywater may call for more or less treatment. Some uses, such as outdoor irrigation, are seasonal; greywater is produced year round.
What is the soil type and depth to water table at your site? A shallow water table underlying sandy soil could be in danger of contamination.
Answering these questions will help you decide what type and size of system to install. Because greywater treatment systems are not much in demand, you may have to design and build a system to meet your own specifications and needs. Options to consider for greywater treatment include settling tanks, disinfectants and filters.
Figure 1. Water-quality characteristics of selected domestic wastewater. (Figure has been modified from its original version in order to be html programmed. Please see PDF file or contact NMSU Agricultural Communications for the original hard copy.) ________________________________________________________________________________________
Water Source Characteristics
________________________________________________________________________________________
Automatic Clothes Washer Bleach, Foam, High pH,
Hot water, Nitrate, Oil and
Grease, Oxygen demand,
Phosphate, Salinity, Soaps,
Sodium, Suspended solids,
and Turbidity
Automatic Dish Washer Bacteria, Foam, Food particles, High pH, Hot water, Odor, Oil and grease, Organic matter, Oxygen demand, Salinity, Soaps, Suspended solids, and Turbidity
Bath tub and shower Bacteria, Hair, Hot water, Odor, Oil and grease, Oxygen demand, Soaps, Suspended solids, and Turbidity
Evaporative Cooler Salinity
Sinks, including kitchen Bacteria, Food particles, Hot water, Odor, Oil and grease, Organic matter, Oxygen demand, Soaps, Suspended solids, and Turbidity
Swimming Pool Chlorine, and Salinity _________________________________________________________________________________________
Tanks
In a settling tank, solids and large particles will settle to the bottom, while grease, oils, and small particles will float. The remaining liquid will be reused. A settling tank also allows hot water to cool before reuse. The tank should be large enough to hold twice the expected dally flow plus 40 percent, to allow for sludge accumulation and surge loading. One type of settling tank well-suited for greywater treatment is a septic tank. A septic tank is specifically designed to allow settling, but do not confuse the use of a septic tank to treat greywater with the conventional use of a septic tank. Greywater intended for reuse should NEVER be mixed with toilet wastes.
Greywater coming out of a septic tank contains little or no oxygen. Greywater from an aerobic tank will contain more oxygen, which is better for irrigation purposes. An electrical pump or aerator added to a septic tank can create an aerobic environment. Aerobic conditions allow some decomposition of wastes in the tank, and may help minimize sludge buildup and blockages in the system. Both aerobic and septic tanks will need to be pumped Out every three to five years.
Several types of tanks may be suitable for settling or storage of greywater. In addition to metal, polyethylene, fiberglass or wooden tanks that are commonly used, consider using plastic garbage cans, 55-gallon dims, portable swimming pools, or waterbed mattresses.
Disinfection
Two chemicals used to disinfect water are chlorine and iodine, with chlorine being more common. Not only is it readily available (as household liquid bleach or at swimming pool supply houses) and relatively inexpensive, but it is stable in storage and will, in time, vaporize from the water after disinfection. Organic material in greywater may combine with chlorine, and reduce the amount available for disinfection. For this reason, a filter or settling tank before the disinfection point may be advisable.
Iodine is less affected by organic material, persists longer, and may be more effective at the high pH of greywater. Iodine is also fast-acting, requiring no more than two minutes to kill most pathogens.
Several devices are available commercially that dispense appropriate amounts of iodine or chlorine (in solid or liquid form) to a water system. Check with swimming pool supply houses or water treatment companies.
Filters
The type of filter required for a greywater system depends largely upon the amount of greywater to be filtered and the type of contaminants present. A drain filter is an easy and inexpensive way to filter lint and hair Out of bath or laundry water. A simple cloth bag tied over the end of a hose or pipe may be sufficient for irrigating outdoors or similar applications.
Many types of commercial water filters are available. Most use an activated charcoal, cellulose, or ceramic cartridge that must be cleaned or replaced regularly. Before buying a filter, determine whether it is a gravity filter (for low volumes) or a pressure filter (for flow rates greater than 20 gallons per minute). Also consider the frequency, cost, and ease of maintenance.
Slow sand or multi-media filters are usually built by the homeowner. These gravity filters may be constructed in a 55-gallon drum or similar container that is of suitable size. Features that should be part of a filter include a perforated plate or some other device to distribute water evenly over the top, a concrete funnel in the bottom to help water drain to the perforated drain pipe, and a cover and vent to prevent odors. Fill the bottom of the filter with stones that are too large to enter the drain pipe.
Slow sand filters are shallow layers of stone, medium gravel, and pea gravel beneath a deep layer of sand (see figure 2). A slow sand filter will treat approximately 0.05 to 0.13 gallons per minute per square foot of surface area.
Multi-media filters are filled with a variety of media in order of increasing size, for example, fine sand, coarse sand, gravel, stone, and wood chips, to a total depth of 2 1/2 to 3 feet (see figure 3).
NOTE: Figures 2 and 3 are not available. Please see PDF file or contact NMSU Agricultural Communications for a hard copy.
Slow sand filters require regular cleaning and replacement of the top layer of media. Multi-media filters require less frequent cleaning, but all layers must be cleaned or replaced when maintenance is required. Routing greywater through a settling tank before filtering reduces contaminant load and can lengthen the interval between cleanings.
Figure 4. Treatment for water-quality variables (Figure 4 has been modified from its original version in order to be html programmed. Please see PDF file or contact NMSU Agricultural Communications for the original hard copy.)
