Homemade Shampoo Recipes

When I first began my foray into online anything, I discovered a wonderful Yahoo group, whose primary focus was edible wild foods but we would stray onto just about any other topic you could imagine.  This list was one of those topics.  I have done my best to locate original sources for the information (and include links).

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Homemade Shampoo Recipes

I found this recipe here http://www.best-natural-cures-health-guide.com/natural-cures-shampoo-recipes.html. While it sound like a fantastic recipe, keep in mind that rosemary and lavender can darken hair.

First collect the following items:

  • 4 oz of liquid castile soap with any scent is that available – plain, peppermint, eucalyptus.

  • ½ oz of rosemary – stimulates the hair follicles and helps to prevent premature baldness

  • ½ oz of sage – has antioxidants and keeps things from spoiling and is antibacterial

  • ½ oz of nettles – acts as a blood purifier, blood stimulator, contains a large source of nutrients for hair growth

  • ½ of lavender – controls the production of sebaceous gland oil and reduces itchy and flaky scalp conditions

  • 2000 mg of MSM – provides organic sulfur to your scalp, which improves the health and strength of your hair. It also helps to drive herbal nutrient into the skin and follicles where they can do the most good.

  • one empty 8 oz plastic bottle, or any other empty shampoo or soap bottle.

Mix the herbs in a mason jar, which has a lid. Boil 2 cups of distilled water. Add 3 heaping tablespoons of the mixed herbs into the boiling water. Pull the boiling water and herbs off the stove. Let the herb mixture sit for 30 – 40 minutes. Put the 2000mg of MSM into the herb mixture after 30 minutes of cooling. After 40 minutes and the MSM is melted, strain the herbal mixture into a bowl.

Pour 2 to 2 1/2 oz of strained herbal tea into the 8 oz plastic bottle. Now, pour the 4 oz of castile soap into the 8 oz plastic bottle. Cap the bottle and shake to mix the ingredients.

The shampoo is now finished and ready for use. Use this as a base for all of the shampoos you make. You can add different herbs as you learn what these herbs do and how they help your hair. You can vary the ingredients according to your taste. But now you have a shampoo that has no additives that can harm you.

 


 

Organic Hair Shampoo

From http://naturalorganicshampoo.com/organic-hair-shampoo-recipes/  (Link Is No Longer Available)   For example, here is a popular home organic shampoo recipe:

  • 5 drops of essential oil (any type)

  • 1 tablespoon of glycerin

  • 2 cups of hot chamomile tea

  • 3 tablespoons of grated castile soap

Another recipe involves using ingredients according to your hair color or type. For example, tea of calendula is said to bring out the shine and highlights in red hair. Brunettes can benefit form using tea of sage or rosemary and those with gray hair will enjoy using betony which removes the yellow color.

Other possible ingredients in your organic shampoo can be lemon juice, coconut oil and even egg. You can mix the ingredients into a blender and use as normal shampoo.

 


 

 

Basic Shampoo

From: http://christianhomekeeper.org/sylvia/2009/03/17/homemade-shampoo-recipes/ (Link Is No Longer Available)

  • 1 bar basic soap, grated

  • 4 quarts rain water

  • 2 slightly beaten eggs

  • 1 tsp. powdered borax

  • 1 oz. bay rum

Dissolve soap in boiling water. Let cool. Add eggs, borax and bay rum. Stir to mix thoroughly.

Note:Bay Rum is a men’s cologne that can be found in drug stores and department stores. Caswell Massey makes a very nice Bay Rum.

 


 

Chamomile shampoo

From: http://christianhomekeeper.org/sylvia/2009/03/17/homemade-shampoo-recipes/ (Link Is No Longer Available)

    • 1 handful fresh or dried chamomile flowers

    • 1 3/4 cup boiling water

    • 3 tablespoons pure soap flake, OR save leftover pieces of soap.

    • 1 tablespoon glycerin

    • 5 drops yellow food coloring (optional)

You also will need:

  • 2 heat proof bowls

  • a sieve

  • a wooden spoon

  • a clean 14 ounce bottle with tight fitting cover

Place the flowers in a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Let stand for 15 minutes, then strain into the other bowl.

Clean the first bowl. Combine the soap and hot infusion in it. Let stand until the soap softens – a few minutes. Beat in the glycerin and food coloring until well blended.

Pour the mixture into the bottle. Keep in a cool dark place.

 


 

Basic Shampoo for Normal Hair

From http://hubpages.com/hub/Shampoo My recipes include vegetable oil for natural moisture that stimulates hair growth without clogging the skin, and liquid Castile soap for convenience. Where each recipe calls for a light vegetable oil, use your favorite: jojoba, sweet almond, avocado, apricot kernal, or coconut oil!

  • 1/4 cup water

  • 1/4 cup liquid Castile Soap

  • 1/2 tsp light vegetable oil

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients until well combined. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Massage through wet hair and into scalp. Rinse well.

Scalp-Soothing Shampoo

  • 3 bags chamomile tea

  • 3 bags peppermint tea

  • 1 cup water

  • 2 Tbsp liquid Castile soap

  • 1 tsp light vegetable oil

Instructions:

Bring water to a boil. Steep all six tea bags for 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Remove tea bags and add liquid soap and vegetable oil to brewed tea and stir until well blended. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Massage generously into hair and scalp. Rinse well.

Moisturizing Shampoo for Dry or Damaged Hair

  • 1/4 cup liquid Castile Soap

  • 1/4 cup aloe vera gel

  • 1 tsp glycerin

  • 1/4 tsp light vegetable oil

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients until well combined. Store in an airtight container at room temperature, and shake before every use. Apply liberally to wet hair and let sit a few minutes before rinsing well with cool water.

Lightening Shampoo for Natural Highlights (Blondes Only)

  • 1/4 cup liquid Castile Soap

  • 2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

  • 1/4 cup water

  • 1 tsp lemon zest

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients in saucepan over medium heat 1-2 minutes until heated through but not boiling. Cool to room temperature and strain out lemon zest. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Shampoo hair as usual, rinse well.

Herbal Shampoo for Dandruff Relief

  • 2 Tbsp fresh rosemary

  • 2 Tbsp fresh thyme

  • 2 Tbsp coconut flakes

  • 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

  • 1 cup water

  • 2 Tbsp of liquid Castile soap

  • 1 tsp light vegetable oil

Instructions:

Bring water to a boil. Steep herbs and coconut flakes in boiling water for 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and strain solids from water. Add other ingredients and mix until well combined. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Apply amply to wet hair and massage into scalp before rinsing well with cool water.

 


 

 

Dry Shampoos

From http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2009/08/14/diy-beauty-3-homemade-dry-shampoo-recipes/ If you have oily hair or are on the go and don’t have time for a shower, dry shampoo is a great fix. It won’t clean your hair as well as normal shampoo, but it will make it look presentable and save you some time too!

I’ve tried several dry shampoos in the past, but I’ve never been satisfied with them, so I’ve decided to make my own. Here are a few of my favourite homemade dry shampoo recipes:

Cornstarch

  • 1/2 cup of cornstarch

Massage cornstarch to your scalp and let it absorb oil for a few minutes. Brush it out to remove it.

Almond and Cornmeal Dry Shampoo

    • 2 tablespoons of cornmeal

1 tablespoon of ground almonds

1 1/2 tablespoon of orris root

Mix the ingredients in a small bowl and massage just one teaspoon of the mixture into your scalp. Brush your hair to remove the mixture. If hair still feels greasy, repeat the steps again.

Oatmeal and Baking Soda Dry Shampoo

  • 1 cup of ground oatmeal

  • 1 cup of baking soda

Mix the ingredients together and massage the mixture into your hair. Let the powder absorb the oil and then brush your hair to remove it.

 


 

Dandruff Treatment

From: http://christianhomekeeper.org/sylvia/2009/03/17/homemade-shampoo-recipes/ (Link Is No Longer Available)

  • 3 teaspoons dried rosemary

  • 2 teaspoons dried thyme

  • 2/3 cup boiling water

  • 2/3 cup cider vinegar

Place the herbs in the bowl. Pour in the boiling water. Cover and allow to steep for 20 minutes.

Strain into the bottle, add the vinegar, and shake. Store in a cool dry place.

Shampoo and rinse the hair thoroughly; massage a small amount into the scalp. Between shampoos, massage in a small amount before going to bed. This can help eliminate dandruff.

 


 

Pre wash honey treatment

From: http://christianhomekeeper.org/sylvia/2009/03/17/homemade-shampoo-recipes/ (Link Is No Longer Available)

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 2 teaspoons honey

  • 5 drops rosemary, lavender or geranium essential oil

In a cup sitting in hot water, warm the olive oil and the honey ( or you can use the microwave for heating – be careful) Stir in your choice of essential oil and mix well.

While the mixture is still warm, apply it all over your hair, massaging well into the scalp. Cover your hair with the shower cap (or large plastic bag) wrap the towel around your head and leave on for 10-15 minutes. For severely damaged hair, leave on up to 30 minutes.

Remove the towel and shower cap, and wash your hair with a mild shampoo or baby shampoo.

Makes enough for one application.

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My Soap Making Page

When I originally wrote up this page (2006), I was in the mindset that my soap would not turn out right if I didn’t have this special ingredient or that special ingredient.  Now?  I would just make soap with three basic ingredients: Fat, Water, and Lye.  The recipe really isn’t as important as the ratios: X amount of fats to X amount of water with X amount of lye.  Anything extras, like types of fats or herbs or essential oils are just that: extras.  If you enjoy math as much as I do (not), the easiest place to do the math for you is here: MMS Lye Calculator (the best one out there).  You just type in how much (and what kind of) fats you have and it pretty much does all the math for you.

Now, for the reason I am posting this here.  I am completely re-designing my website.  It’s been ugly for way too long.  Since I do most of my “work” here (and on my 2 other blogs), I’m turning it into basically a placeholder for links to my blogs, You Tube pages PLUS adding that same information for some special women I know.  So, I am transferring the last bit of information I had stored there to this blog.  Now, without further ado, to present my original soap making web page, in its entirety.

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Soap Making

As daunting a task as soap making seems to be, it truly is a simple process. Once you get the basics down, the possibilities are endless! Here are some links to get you started:

The key to soap making is being prepared. You must have everything there, ready to be used, and the correct lye to fat ratio (see MMS Lye Calculator). You can try any recipe you see on-line, but be sure to check the lye calculator to ensure the proportions are correct. If the proportions are not correct, you can either end up with a soap too soft to use or so harsh it can burn your skin. Like I said, preparation is the key.

I make soap using what I have on-hand. I typically use anything you can eat. The only time I buy anything special is if I run out (I did not grow enough), or just really like it (like Coconut Oil). I keep soap making as simple (and natural) as possible. This allows me to make soap if I run out of Coconut Oil, or a particular essential oil. Purchasing as local as I can is also important to me. If I can’t find something close by, then I branch out. My Coconut Oil I purchased from a food supplier in Los Angeles, and essential oils from Arizona. If I find a supplier closer to me, then I will purchase from them. Do your best to purchase from organic sources that you (or someone you know) trust. We put enough chemicals into our bodies that we don’t need to add more.

This brings me to essential oils (referred to as EO in soaping circles). Not only do I use essential oils for their fragrance, but also their medicinal or aromatherapy qualities. The beauty of essential oils is their purity. When you get lavender essential oil, that’s all it is. There are no unknown scents or colors added. Unless I know the supplier is reputable, I am very weary of Fragrance Oils. I never know what kind of oils they used to make that particular scent. There are books out there that give formulas for mixing your own essential oils. Give those a try before purchasing a Fragrance Oil (usually referred to as FO).

There are some fantastic colors that can be added to your soaps. To me, it’s adding more expense to the soap unnecessarily and more chemicals (whether natural or man-made). My soaps are naturally colored, by the herb I am using or the soap making process itself. When I first began, I thought I needed everything under the sun in my soaps to make them better. For my kitchen soap, I added cornmeal and for my lavender I added the lavender buds. Over time, I realized those additions did not make me any cleaner and just left a mess in the tub. Now, simple soaps are the way to go.

Once you get to the point where you are ready to begin the process, you need to consider safety. Lye is extremely caustic. I always wear long sleeved shirts, long pants, glasses (any kind will do, as long as they protect your eyes from splashing lye), real shoes (not sandals), and rubber gloves. The only chemical that has burned me worse than lye is paint stripper. Also, you need to be in a well ventilated area. The first time I made soap, I did it in the garage (with the doors closed). As soon as the fumes reached my face I had an instant asthma attack.

The containers you do your mixing in are also important. They can be earthen ware, stainless steel, or plastic. No other metals can be used, since they will react with the lye. It is best to only use these items for soaping. You will need two containers, one for the lye solution and one for the oils. You also need something to stir the liquids with. I use wooden spoons. One thing to keep in mind is lye will weaken wooden spoons, so keep an eye on them and if they show any signs of weakening (splintering) then get a new one.

Now for molds. You can either spend up to hundreds of dollars on fancy molds, or go down to the lumber store and make your own. Some people use candle molds, which are fine as long as they are not tin. Mine? I took an old wooden T.V. tray and removed the legs. I flipped it upside down and made a frame with pine 1X4s. That’s it! I line the mold with freezer paper (not the kind with plastic on one side, but traditional freezer paper), pour the soup into the mold, then tamp it down to eliminate air pockets (I knock the mold against the table).

The following description of my method of making soap is called “Cold Process” (or CP). I have always liked this method because it is a slower process, and since sometimes I am not as organized as I should be, this gives me time to run and get whatever it is I forgot.

Melt all your oils, and keep them lukewarm. Mix the lye and water, ensuring the lye is completely dissolved. Once the lye water is the same temperature as your oils, SLOWLY pour the lye water into the oils, stirring constantly. Continue stirring for what seems like forever (or use a hand blender, like a Braun mixer). When it has the consistency of soft pudding, that is called trace. That is the time when you would add any essential oils or other additives you desire. Stir a little longer, then poor into molds.

Now, you need to choose how you want the soap to look. Do you want it solid (milky, looking like store-bought soap) or would you prefer a more translucent color (similar to glycerine). If you want your soap solid, you only need to place something thin (like paper towels) over the mold to prevent dust from getting on your soap. If you want it more like glycerine, wrap the mold with a heavy towel or blanket. It’s the temperature difference that changes the soap. Leave the soap in the mold for 12 to 24 hours (if you leave the soap in the mold longer than that, it will be virtually impossible to cut into bars).

Cutting the soap into bars can be tricky. If you are making soap to sell, you have to have bars that are consistent in weight. If you are not planning on selling your soap, just cut the bars so they can comfortably fit in your hand. Then you can finish off the edges of the soap using either a knife or vegetable peeler. They can be any shape you want. Use your imagination!

Place the bars on a shelf or rack that allows good air flow, and let them cure for at least 4 to 6 weeks. This allows the soap to dry and harden. You will know when it’s ready. If you can squeeze the soap, you have to wait. The amount of time needed depends on how humid your environment is. To protect your soap from dust, place cheesecloth over the top. Once your soap is ready, store it like you normally would any soap. I keep mine in separate cardboard boxes, separated by type. OH! One more thing. The longer your soap sits, the more any scent will dissipate.

About Milk Soaps

You can take any soap recipe and replace the liquid (water) with cow or goat milk. There are two things you need to do that are different. If you want a white soap (due to the high natural sugar content in milk, which caramelizes/burns at high heat) the milk has to be frozen (I froze mine in ice cube trays). I tossed my frozen goats milk in the bucket, poured the lye over the ice cubes, stirred until the milk was no longer frozen, then proceeded with the rest of the recipe. Otherwise, the color of the soap will end up being anywhere from light tan to dark brown. The other change is you do not insulate the soap (wrap it in a blanket or towel). I found this article (with video) that may help: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/making-goat-soap.

 


 

My Basic Recipes

This is my basic recipe, and one castille recipe for soap. With this, I can just change the amounts of the other ingredients if I am out of an item then run it through the lye calculator again.

Sustainable Home’s Basic Soap Recipe

  • 28 ounces of Olive Oil

  • 28 ounces of Coconut Oil

  • 44 ounces of Shortening

  • 7 ounces of Cocoa Butter

  • 14.9 ounces Lye

  • 40 ounces Water

  • 4 ounces Essential Oil (optional)

Castile Soap Recipe

  • 107 ounces of Olive Oil

  • 13.7 ounces of Lye

  • 30 ounces of Water

NOTE: For Liquid Castile Soap, place 1 cup grated Castile, 3 cups water in a large pot. Turn on low heat and stir constantly until soap has dissolved. Add 2 Tablespoons glycerin. Once dissolved, transfer to a jar and cover tightly.

As you can see from the Castile Soap recipe, soap can be as simple or as complex as you want. What I do to make each type of soap unique is firstly, decided what kind of soap I want. For my Lavender soap, I start a few days ahead of time. I heat up the water and oil (seperately, of course), then put lavender buds in the liquids and let them steep for at least 48 hours. Then, I strain and make my soap. This adds more of the lavender into the soap and colors the soap naturally. My lavender soap turns out a very pale lavender color. For my Kitchen Soap, I do the same with dried Calendula (Marigold) petals. I have even thought of doing this with coffee, since coffee is supposed help remove odors from your hands. For hand washing dishes, I grate some soap, mix it with water, and use that just like commercial detergent. Not only does it cut the grease, it does not dry your hands.

Here are pictures of some of the soaps I have made, when I thought I was going to do this as a business (I was going to post exact recipes but now that I am reading all the recipes I developed, I will hold onto them):

dirtdigger1

 

This is my Dirt Digger Soap. It has Calendula-infused water and oil, lemon essential oil, ground calendula petals and cornmeal for that extra scrub. This was made in 3-inch PVC pipe.

dirtdiggersoap

 

This is the same Dirt Digger Soap as above, with the sides cut and a cigar band label with raffia. The hand cream in the picture had some lemon essential oil in it but because I did not use a commercial preservative, I had bottles explode! LOL!

emulotionsoap

 

This soap was also made in the 3-inch PVC pipe and prepared for sale as above. I replaced some of the oils with Emu Oil.

lusciouslavender

 

This soap is my favorite, though I have run out (I swore I would not make any more until ALL my soap is gone). Lavender infused oil and water, lavender essential oil, and ground lavender buds. The color of all these soaps are natural, from the infused oils/water. This soap was made in a log mold, then cut with the crinkle cutter.

lavendersoap

 

All dressed up! 🙂 These soaps were named for dear online friends of mine. I have many more but that is why I decided not to publish the recipes.

 


 

Liquid Soap

There are three ways you can make liquid hand soap:

  1. Make bar soap, grate it, then mix boiling water with it to get the right consistency. This is good for making small batches at a time. Without adding a chemical preservative, this will go rancid and/or bacteria can grow if left sitting too long (more than two to three months or so in the summer and it needs to be discarded and a fresh batch made).

  2. Go to a good craft/hobby store, like Michaels, and purchase liquid soap base. It’s basically unscented liquid soap. Then you can add some essential oils to scent it or add natural anti-bacterial properties (lavender and rosemary are good for that, if you like the scent, tea tree oil is a great anti-bacterial though a little goes a long way and smells very medicinal).

  3. Make it from scratch.

Here are three basic recipes (liquid soap requires potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide, which is your Red Devil lye. This is basically the difference between hard soap and soft soap):

Basic Liquid Soap (you can use any oils you want as long as you adjust the amount of lye)

http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_liquidsoaprecipes.html (website is no longer online)

Measurements by weight

  • 45 oz. coconut 76 degree

  • 80 oz. sunflower seed oil

  • 48 fluid oz. Water

  • 26 oz. Potassium hydroxide (This is a 3% lye discount.)

  • 2 to 2.5 gallons Dilution Water

Liquid Soap (you can use any oils you want as long as you adjust the amount of lye)

http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php?.State=Display&id=102

Measurements by weight

  • 1 ounce weight Avocado Oil

  • 4 ounces weight Coconut Oil

  • 11 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil (shortening)

  • 3.1 ounces weight KOH (potassium hydroxide)

  • 8 ounces water (and we all know that water is the same in ounces weight as it is in fluid ounces)

Instructions:

Mix as usual.

 

Phase 1

Allow the water and KOH to be mixed and then added to melted fats. Stir until trace (read use a handblender). Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. .

Phase 2

Then slowly stir (read use a spoon) in extra water to create a liquid soap.

Notes & Comments:

Heidi Feldman (list member) uses a gelled water, created from soaking irish moss in water, when adding the water during phase 2. Also, scenting is done is phase 2, not in phase 1. The reason? It sticks!

For a smaller batch, and step by step instructions (with pictures) you can try this recipe: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/liquidsoap/ss/basicliquidsoap.htm

Suppliers

If you can’t find suppliers locally, here are a few I have purchased from and really like:

http://www.soapies-supplies.com/shop/

http://www.brambleberry.com/

There are tons of recipes on the web for making soaps and shampoos. As long as you verify the correct amount of lye with a good calculator MMS Lye Calculator you can’t really go wrong!

 


 

 

Laundry

There are many recipes online for laundry soap. I would suggest trying them until you find the one you like. I only tried one recipe but I ended up going back to Tide.

With my husband’s greasy work, and a 13 year old, I use a homemade spot treater. I got this recipe from The Frugal Shopper. I LOVE this stuff! It works so well I use it for cleaning everything! It especially works wonders on a greasy stove!

Stain Remover

  • 1/2 cup of Ammonia

  • 1/2 cup of Vinegar (great way to use that white vinegar)

  • 2 Tablespoons Liquid Laundry Detergent

  • 2 quarts water

I don’t add the Liquid Laundry Detergent, since mine is powdered. Pour ingredients in a 1 gallon bottle (used plastic vinegar bottles work perfect for this). Make sure the lid is on tight, and shake bottle to mix. Pour into a spray bottle, and spray away!

 


 

 

How Did A Newbie Do?

I get so excited when someone tries soap making for the first time, and that’s exactly what an online friend did after reading this page. Here is his experience:

“July 17, 2006: Well, I made my first attempt at making soap. Just basic plain lard based variety. Figure if I start simple and something goes wacky I may have a chance to figure out what went wrong since EO is subject to being converted also plus other variables would complicate that process. Learn first then get fancy. 😉 Anyway, 4 pounds of lard, 8.45 ounces of lye and 24 ounces of water later I have a batch in a computer keyboard box lined with plastic for a “mold”. Trace wasn’t happening worth mentioning after three hours of stirring. I think one thing affecting it was I used the maximum amout of water recommended. So I started using a regular blender at a lower speed (puree) and let it blend for about 4 minutes per load which brought it almost to trace then stirred all the “blended” loads together and started a second run through blender. The second blender run required a higher speed and after only a minute or so it was tracing big time, almost like warm buttercream frosting. After running it all through blender second time I stirred it all together again to even it out then poured into my “mold”.

I would highly recommend using a stick blender and won’t attempt this again until I have one since it was close to 90 minutes before the batch would stop separating almost immediately when stirring stopped which obviously is not good. I think this may be related also to the water issue. I did use one trick from Hershberger in the Walton link which is to use ice water and ice when mixing your lye. Keeps the fumes down a bunch and takes less time to wait for it to cool since it doesn’t get as hot. Eight ice cubes and ice water from a jug till it measured 24 ounces, then added the lye. Worked great.

At any rate I should end up with a little over 5 pounds of soap for a total cost of about $4.50 which is about 30 cents less than what half that much Ivory soap would cost me so its a good deal. I’ll try to remember to let you know what its like to use after its cured.” “August 08, 2006: Just a quick note to let you kow the soap works great. Somewhat drying but then I didn’t allow for a lot of excess fat. It doesn’t give lots of lather but then lard soap isn’t supposed to either. But, when you wash with it you can see the difference in ‘clean’ compared to ‘factory soap or detergent/deodorant bars’. Thanks for prompting me to do this.

Laughs at Hurricanes”

You and Etsy

I know virtually nothing about Etsy.  Whenever anyone mentioned it, I figured it was just some website for some people to sell doilies.  🙂  Then, I stumbled onto this article:

https://www.yahoo.com/diy/secrets-of-the-richest-seller-on-etsy-105472402320.html

This woman, Alicia Shaffer of Three Birds Nest is bringing in an average of $65,000 per month! That’s insane! So, I did a little searching and found this article about other Etsy shops:

15 Etsy Shops That are Killing it With Sales – Fresh Rag

This is the article that shocked me. I had no idea the varied items offered on Etsy! So, I wanted to learn more and it turns out Dave Conrey of Fresh Rag had a follow-up article:

Top Shop Selling Secrets of Three Bird Nest

He offers great tips for any sales website. I was hoping to find a podcast of his interview with Alicia Shaffer but had no luck. I did find other podcasts on his website that are fantastic.

My reason for this post is simple: You all are brilliantly creative. You can make money doing what you love (I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow up). So, read these articles and check out Dave Conrey’s Fresh Rag website. Go forth and prosper. 🙂

How To Make High Grade Natural Beeswax Leather Polish and Conditioner

This is GREAT!  I’m always running out and what better way to save money (since I have tons of stuff for soap making and haven’t made soap in YEARS) than to be able to make my own!  I hope it won’t make hubby’s work boots catch on fire easier (he’s a welder)!  lol

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-High-Grade-Natural-Beeswax-Leather-Pol/?ALLSTEPS

Tools:
Measuring spoons
Tins for your polish (I’m not a fan of plastic bottles but you can use them)
Pyrex measuring cup
Small pot
Small aluminum pie plate
Wooden spoon
Bamboo skewers (optional)

Supplies;
Beeswax – solid; Protection for leather. Creates a barrier for environmental influences
Coconut butter – semi solid; Conditions the leather surface.
Sweet Almond oil – liquid; Softens the leather internally and replaces the natural oils lost through dying
Castor oil – liquid; Heavier oil that provides the ‘shine’. Can be replaced with mineral oil if necessary.

**Optional**
Pure Ammonia or Alcohol – liquid; Cleans and degreases the surface before polishing. As I mentioned before, the old recipes called for human urine.

Coconut Oil (and others) Supplier

My Atkins Keto Journey

I bought a 5-gallon bucket 9 years-ish ago, when I was making soap.  Of course, that’s just about the time I stopped making soap but who knew I’d be eating this stuff and it makes the best natural (though greasy) moisturizer.  I just checked the price and it’s the same ($105 per 5 gallons plus shipping).  I think I got the 76, which smells and tastes strongly of coconut.  I love it and have barely made a dent!

http://naturaloils.com

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Soap By The Shotglass

This was originally from a website that no longer exists. Thank you, bmama, for this.

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BASIC SOAP
=============

SOAP BY THE SHOT GLASS (Cough Medicine Measuring Cup)
=====================================================
1 teaspoon = 5 ml(cc), 1 fl oz = 30 ml(cc),
1 cup = 240 ml(cc), 1 qt = 1 L (1000cc).
=====================================================
mass of water = grams of oil x 0.038
mass of lye = grams of oil x 0.13
(0.19 for coconut oil)
=====================================================
Lye is approximately 30g per 1 fluid oz.
Oil is approximately 28g per 1 fluid oz.
=====================================================
Fat/Oil Soap => 1 shot oil + 11g water + 5.50g NaOH
Coconut Soap => 1 shot oil + 11g water + 3.75g NaOH
=====================================================
LESS NaOH makes soap more oily and moisturizing.
MORE NaOH makes soap more harsh + grease cutting.
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BRIM means use 1 fluid oz plus 2 extra teaspoons
SOAP: (using a 1 fluid oz couh syrup shot cup) =>

MIX
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1. 4 shots water (to the brim)
+ 2 shots NaOH(lye) (to the 1 oz line)

ADD
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2. 6 shots coconut oil (to the brim)
+ 6 shots olive oil (to the brim)

NOTE: The olive oil may be substituted with another fat or oil, but the amount of coconut oil MUST remain the same. Coconut oil is unique in soap formulas. It ensures a good bubbly lather.

Simmer and stir with stainless steel fork in a 2 qt stainless steel or glass container for 60 minutes or until “mashed-potatoes” consistency is achieved (no “wetness”).

It doesn’t hurt to ensure reaction is done by stirring with heat for a longer time. When done, wait until it is cool to the touch before continuing with additions.

You can now add colors, oils, herbs.

OR, add 2 shots baking soda + 2 shots borax. These are anti-bacterials, anti-fungals, water softeners, deodorizers, and skin conditioners that will help ensure a good lather, deep cleaning, and little, if any, soap scum.

OR, for an anti-parasite and anti-bio/chemical warfare and anti-bacterial/fungal/yeast/virus soap: to a 1 qt container, add 4 shots baking soda + 4 shots borax and 1 cup bleach and mix well, until milky. Then mix this solution with the soap while still warm. It isn’t good to kill bacteria alone because it allows fungii and other competitors to overgrow. This is a very deep-cleaning, yet mild, formula.

WARNING: only use finger-tip-fulls for the whole body – add to an existing pure-soap lather if it is harsh at first (the body adapts to oxication). This will result in an extra-clean feeling lather. NOT FOR HAIR!!! It will make hair feel very “fine”.
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Skin Care

If you have been a follower for a while, you may have noticed some posts from a few years ago that weren’t originally there.  Well, I’m trying to downsize my server usage for my website.  So, I’m converting all the text files I have into blog posts and just including the links on my website.  That being said, I’m tired of trying to figure out when I posted what (it really helps that I have a chest cold), so I’m just going to go on a post frenzy.  I hope you don’t mind!  🙂

Various recipes (with links if they are still active) I have collected over the years from various friends.

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Acne Cleanser
FROM: http://www.wildroots.com/recipe/index.html

* 1/4 cup Witch Hazel
* 1 Tablespoon Aloe Vera Gel
* 10 drops Tea Tree Oil

Apply cleanser with a cotton ball. Use 2 -3 times a day as needed. Tea Tree Oil can effectively help reduce acne inflammation. It works slower than benzyl peroxide lotions but it is gentler on the skin.

Dee
“The Gardenthyme Lady”

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Bath Oil, Bath Salts, And Such

This topic I can sink my teeth into!!!!!! I’ve gathered books and research online for quite a few years on all these goodies. Some of these are from addy’s I no longer have and from a home spa site. I give credit to whoever they are.;)

“For herbal baths you can mix up the herbal mixture in a large amount (a cup or two) and make a concentrate by adding a quart of boiling water to steep and strain ,…adding this to the bath. For a bath herbal bag,…I use my hand made bags of finely woven nylon as it’s so easy to clean out after wards and holds in all the sediment so there is no danger of clogging the drain. I add the spent herbs as mulch to my house plants.” – Em

Know how most homemade bath oil simply floats on bath water? Dispersing bath oil is different! It mixes with water, clings to skin and forms a thin, even coating. This oil has a long shelf life at room temperature.

Em’s Bath Oil

* List of supplies
* 1 whole egg
* 2 tablespoons honey
* 1/2 cup baby or mineral oil
* 1/4 cup whole fresh milk
* 2 teaspoons liquid soap or dish washing liquid
* Fragrant oil (optional) estimate about 1 teaspoon
* 1/4 cup vodka

Mix all ingredients in a blender for 30 seconds. Use only one or two tablespoons of this oil in a bathtub of water.

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Apricot, Fig & Date Body Polish

* 10 dried apricots
* 5 figs & 4 dates
* 1/2 cup buttermilk
* 1 tsp buckwheat bran or flour
* 1/8 cup aloe vera juice

Using this apricot, fig, and date body polish is like showering with ambrosia, yet it makes and excellent body buffer. Apricots are useful in refining the surface of the skin while figs are fine in poultices because they help combat inflammation. First soak the dried fruits in a cup of distilled water for an hour to soften, then mix with the other ingredients in a blender.

Source: Victoria magazine.

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Scented Dusting powder

* 5 tbsp. unscented talcum powder
* 1 tbsp. cornstarch
* 5 drops rose or jasmine oil or 2 drops peppermint oil

1.} Combine all of these ingredients and mix well with a wooden spoon. Then just place in a lided container with a dusting powder puff, or place in a container with a pierced lid. I use an antique ceramic salt shaker that has big holes in the top and a cork in the bottom! These would make a fantastic gift idea!

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Bath Potpourri

* Solar salt (coarse grind) (same salt used for water softeners)
* Essential oils Dried herbs: lavender, chamomile, rose buds/rose petals, Thyme, rosemary, etc.
* 1 Tablespoon Orris root powder Oatmeal
* Rosebuds

In a large bowl add 3 large handfuls of solar salt. Add 2 handful rolled oats (oatmeal). Add 1 handful of desired dried herbs. Add 10-20 drops of essential oil of choice. Mix with hand. Store in zip lock bag or decorative jar.

To use: place 1-2 cups in muslin bag, nylon, or large tea ball. Hang from faucet as water fills tub. Then submerge in water. Get in and relax. Shake ball or squeeze bag as you soak to continue to release conditioning mixture.

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Milk Bath Marinade

* Tub of warm water
* 1 cup of dried milk (non-fat for oily skin)
* One handful dried herbs of choice: Chamomile, clary sage, lavender
* 3 cups boiling water

Combine herbs in small bowl. Add boiling water and cover. Let steep 5-10 minutes. Strain and add to bath water. Add powered milk. Get in and enjoy the same bath that Cleopatra took pleasure in.

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BATH SALTS

* 5lbs. sea salt
* 1oz. vegetable glycerin
* 1/2 oz essential or fragrance oils
* food coloring (optional)

Combine the glycerin with the scent & coloring. Pour into the sea salt in a jar and turn to mix. Fill containers jars, etc. and scoop out with a seashell.

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Basic Bath Salts
by Mindy Green
Source: Herb for Health Nov/Dec 2001

* 1 c borax
* 1/2 c sea salt
* 1/2 c baking soda
* 1 teaspoon essential oil

Mix all of the ingredients together and store in a glass container. Add 1/4 to 1/2 c to the bath water to soften and delicately scent your skin. If stored in a covered glass container, the bath salts will keep indefinitely.

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Fizzing Bath Salts

* 16oz baking soda
* 8oz citric acid
* 8oz sea salt or epsom salt
* fragrance as desired

Break up any lumps in the baking soda. Add fragrance oil or essential oil and mix in well. Add citric acid and salt. Blend well. Use 1/4 to 1/2 cup per bath.

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Herbal Bath Salts

* 16oz baking soda
* 8oz sea salt or epsom salt
* 2 tsp of your favorite herb or herbal blend (try lavender, chamomile, calendula, etc)
* fragrance as desired

Break up any lumps in the baking soda. Add fragrance and mix in well. Add salt and herbs and blend well. If you do not like the herbs floating around in the bath water simply place the mix in a muslin bag or tie up in cheesecloth. Use 1/2 cup per bath.

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Milk Bath

* 16oz baking soda
* 16oz sea salt or epsom salt
* 8oz powdered milk
* fragrance as desired

Break up any lumps in the baking soda. Add fragrance and mix in well. Add powdered milk and salt. Blend in well. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup per bath.

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Oatmeal Milk Bath

* 16oz sea or epsom salt
* 8oz baking soda
* 1 cup powdered milk
* 1 cup ground oatmeal
* fragrance as desired

Break up any lumps in the baking soda. Add fragrance and mix in well. Add salt, powdered milk and oatmeal. If you don’t like the oatmeal floating around in the bath water simply place in a muslin bag or piece of cheesecloth. Use 1/2 cup per bath.

I consider bath time as a sacred time not only to relax and release the stresses out of the body,…but as an act of loving the self and being kind to the body, mind, heart and soul.

Enjoy!
blessings,
🙂 Em

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Borage, Egg, Yeast, and Almond Oil Pack

* 1 egg yolk
* 2 teaspoons of almond oil
* 7g/1/4 oz of fresh yeast, (or use dried yeast mixed with a little warm water to make a paste)
* 1 T of strong borage infusion

Beat together egg yolk, almond oil and yeast. Mix in borage infusion. Smooth the mixture on to the skin and leave for 10 minutes. Wash it off with warm water, pat dry and apply moisturizer.

To make borage infusion, pour 1 cup of boiling water over 2 tablespoons of crushed or chopped borage leaves.

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Borage Face Mask

This revitalizing face mask is suitable for dry skins. Place a handful of clean, young borage leaves in a blender with 1 tbsp water and grind to a pulp. Mix in enough sour cream to form a paste. Apply to clean, damp skin. Relax for 15 minutes, then wash the mask off with warm water.

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Mint Foot Bath

Refresh tired and aching feet by soaking them in a soothing mint foot bath. Make an infusion of 1 tablespoon of mint (or more) and 1 quart boiling water. Leave to infuse 15 minutes, strain and immerse your feet in the scented warm water.

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Tired Feet Bath

http://joellessacredgrove.com/Herbs/cosmetic.html#foot

* 3 drops lavender
* 3 drops rosemary
* 4 drops lemon

Add oils to 2 gallons of warm water and mix well. This blend comes in handy when you’ve been on your feet all day. The lavender soothes the feet and the rosemary and lemon refresh, revive, and stimulate circulation.

Crocheted Bath Puff and Laundry

Well, thanks to Dee Dee’s instructions (http://firefly5555.blogspot.com/2011/06/bath-puff-pattern-with-improvements.html) I found another project to do this weekend.  I made a bath puff.  In the picture, the old, purchased one is on the left, mine on the right (still wet from my shower last night).  No matter what, it just felt like it wasn’t big enough.  I ended up doing about 8 rows.  I also did not use cotton yarn, because I don’t have any.  I also used a “G” size hook because that’s the smallest one I had.  The only thing I have to complain about is I’m not sure how to hold it!  LOL!  Not sure how I’m going to fix that.  What I was thinking about doing is taking the string/suction cup from the old one and cinching the center together so basically all the crocheted “brains” will all be on one side.   I’ve been thinking about the netting from the old scrubber.  I think this one I will make into produce bags, since I prefer to hang almost EVERYTHING in my kitchen since I do not have a lot of counter/cabinet space.

Cleaning a Fiberglass Tub

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We have one of those fiberglass tub/shower inserts.  It was here when we moved in.  I hate fiberglass.  I can’t use what I usually do to clean it.  It has been driving me crazy, trying to truly get the tub clean.  You know, those non-slip grooves on the bottom?  I have tried everything I could think of: Scrubbing Bubbles (which doesn’t seem to clean as well as it used to), baking soda, non-abrasive scrubs, brushes, green scrubbers, filling the tub with water, pouring a gallon of bleach in there, and letting it soak all day, 409, etc.  It’s exhausting when I realize how much time thinking about that tub has taken up.
 
So, I figured I’d give it one more try.  I went looking online (again) and found it.
 
OVEN CLEANER! 
 
Well, oven cleaner and A LOT of elbow grease (my hands are shaking so much I have to keep fixing all the errors my shaking fingers are making).
 
This would have gone better if we didn’t have the “no-odor” oven cleaner.  It just does not clean as well.  So what if I have to wear a respirator!  As long as it’s clean, I’m happy!
 
So, you spray the tub with the oven cleaner and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes.  If it dries, it’s makes scrubbing more difficult.  Use a green scrubber on the smooth areas (using a circular motion).  Now, use a stiff, narrow-bristled brush for the non-skid grooves.  If the bristles are too wide, they won’t get into those tiny dimples (guess how I found this out?  I scrubbed for 20 minutes, trying to figure out why it wasn’t working.  I switched brushes, and that did the trick!).  Rinse the tub/surround, dry, and repeat if necessary.
 
So, how can this help you to become more sustainable?  GET A PORCELAIN TUB AND TILE SURROUND FOR YOUR BATHROOM!  If this was my house, it would have already been done!